Luxembourg City

Luxembourg City began as a small castle looking over a two-pronged valley with a small river meandering through. Over centuries it was taken over by so many countries: Spain, France, Austria, each one of them making the fortress more fortified until it had the reputation for being the best fortified around. So Luxembourg declared itself to be a neutral country and then let their guard down. Enter Hitler who chose not to recognize their neutral status and marched right in. It was a brutal occupation and much of the city was flattened, burned and bombed to smithereens. I took a walking tour through the old town and learned all about it from our guide who pointed out so many old military hospitals and barracks that later became prisons and poorhouses, even apartments. Some of the outer walls were torn down and are now a greenway with trails and gardens that ring the old part of the city.

Our walking group chanced upon a nicely dressed man who greeted us, asked about our origins, wished us a pleasant stay. Our guide told us he was the Prime Minister and couldn't believe none of us took photos of him. I was taken by the fact that their elected leader walked the streets without bodyguards and newsmen with cameras and microphones.Then she launched into a mini lecture about how they have a duel system of government consisting of both monarchy and elected officials.

The Presidential Palace - It flies a white flag when the Duke is in it.

I found the market Saturday morning in one of the old town's many squares. In the center were fresh flowers and plants surrounded by vegetable and cold cut booths selling fresh produce, deli olives and condiments, cured meats, and cheeses. The outside ring had foods ranging from bratwursts, roasted chickens, pastries and chocolates, to name a few. Everyone was there, stocking up for the week while onstage, bands played country or rock music. Another square had booths of books, antiques and curios. Live music of the more classical variety came from a temporary stage. The next day the music was still there, tables and benches set up but the market gone.

I went into the history museum which was very much about the German occupation. Then I visited the Casements, tunnels cut beneath the castle for munitions with the usual slot windows for firing small weapons, openings for cannons to fire from and windows with great views. There were times people actually lived in this underground, sheltering from whoever the current marauders might be.

At first I was disappointed in the boxy two-story architecture but it really didn't take me long to fall in love with Luxembourg City. There are so many shapes pointing skyward from these buildings. A few were what we would think of as normal church steeples. But there were other shapes: bulbs, bubbles and pie-slice wedges sticking up from these buildings that I got obsessed. I could be found on so many street corners with my drawing pad in hand and I'm sure more than a few people wondered about my mental state. I must also mention the quirky little touches and lively, often humorous statues.

 

Luxembourg ranks as one of the wealthiest countries in the European Union and has a slick new EU Sector complete with lots of glass and steel as well as five star hotels. There is an art museum up there that has done an interesting job of incorporating the old castle walls into their modern design. I find this sector to be incredibly dull but they seem to be rather proud of it. In the meantime, our guide spoke of the many workers brought in by the banking industry and how so many people worked in this city but lived outside the country due the high cost of living. When asked what percentage of their work force were citizens, her estimate was 55%. Another man said to me, "You Americans have the Cayman Islands. The EU has Luxembourg." Hmmm....