Thessaloniki, Greece

Going by first impressions, it is difficult to believe that Thessaloniki, Greece was once a grand and important city. During the Roman Empire one Caesar chose it as a military base. It was part of the Byzantine Empire, capitol of Macedonia, an important sea port with all the classes and all the amenities. It was conquered and occupied over and over. Its traditional churches went from cathedral to mosque, then back to cathedral.

Close-up of the fancy brickwork of traditional Greek church

Then the fire, in 1917, destroyed a third of the city leaving almost half the population homeless. What rose from the ashes was flat, plain architecture with balcony after balcony after balcony. In my opinion, the fact that they were built with complete disregard to the floors of the building next door saves it from being too regimented for words.

Then there is the old town with its steep, twisted, narrow, cobblestone streets, with houses having medieval overhanging balconies and second stories. Old town is being gentrified at a rapid pace which saves the crumbling structures but takes the 'old' out of them. This is dubious improvement as far as I'm concerned but I have a taste for old, funky and unusual.

Old town gentrified

An abandoned building in old town

Thessalonica's castle

I don't think one can put a shovel in the ground without unearthing some remnant of Roman civilization. Ruins are everywhere and excavation is going on around every other turn, it seems. I asked the fellow from the hostel how one separated the Roman and Greek Empires and he said something along the lines on, 'You tourists, always asking.' with a distinct tone of exasperation before he went on to say, We Greeks don't care. It is just here.' Talk about putting me in my place!

People are not outgoing with strangers there. Often a morning hello got me a dark look in return. Yet, several times I asked direction or spoke to someone who would gleefully adopt me, bless me and reward me with big smiles.

I close with a few random shots from Thessaliniki.

Painting icons is an honorable occupation in Thessaloniki.