Wrap It Up

I'm home now but want to make a final, well, almost final, comment on Istanbul. This city is now number one on my favorite cities list. Istanbul is different from any place I've visited in Eastern Europe or the US. It's a busy city with a one foot in the present and the other in the distant past. What a history!

People have been very friendly, even those who aren't trying to sell me something. I've never been anywhere that people stepped forward and volunteered to help without even being asked, be it giving directions or hauling luggage. And is this city ever industrious!! Maybe its because this is Ramadam though I think it isn't just that. Maybe they are simply curious about us tourists but I don't care because it is so nice to have personal contact with strangers.

Speaking of Ramadam, I feel lucky to have been in Turkey for the beginning of it. I asked a young chef at our hostel what it was all about. He felt it best to quote his father who's explanation was that the whole fasting thing is a reminder to be generous to those who are less fortunate by sharing their hunger for a period of time. Therefore, they fast from sunup to sundown without even water in the dead of summer. I hear there are exemptions for those who are pregnant or have medical problems such as diabetes, but can't swear to that. I noticed increased evening activity with food booths preparing for the onslaught that would come with the call to end the daily fast. There were more beggars on the streets and they were raking it in. We could hear the festivities in the Hagia Sophia park, music and the hum of a crowds in the streets. I was too worn out to investigate. I am truly sorry that my government gave Muslims such a bad rap because I have found them to be a very big-hearted group of people.

I want to end this trip by presenting some photos of the people I met and observations from my treks off the beaten tourist path in all of Turkey.

Yes, they still do foot washing. I didn't notice this at most of the mosques I visited, but one had washing stations to accomodate a crowd. Several people came to wash in the short time I was there. I don't really know what its all about.

We wandered into an old neighborhood and ran across this makeshift vegetable-fruit market. It reminds me of the truck farmer that came to my neighborhood when I was very young. I'd be willing to bet this fancy rig was his own creation.

This restaurant served my favorite food, a philo form filled with chicken and aubergine with a tasty sauce and topped with cheese. The owner, the proud man on the left, gave us tea every time we ate there and always refused payment. His son is attending a school in New York. Many little restaurants display their entrees in the window for people like myself who just can't resist.

A hop skip and a jump from the Galata Bridge, a very popular tourist destination, is a lively little neighborhood of locals where a a few small fishing vessels dock and...guess what? There is a fish market. There were a few vegetable stands as well as a fellow who cooked fish right there and sold it from his cart.

In the neighborhood next to the fish market, one can buy block and tackle, rope, and all manner of hardware necessary to maintain a small fishing operation. I ran across this store selling paint. These bags contain powdered colorants, something I've never seen in this country. Notice the stones painted to show the colors available.

This is a plate of mezes, appetizers prepared by our chef at the Istanbul Hostel. There is hummus as well as a dolma but most of these are some variation of eggplant, or aubergine which seems like the same thing to me. These are dips to be scooped and scarfed up with the bread provided. Later he brought us what he said was his special Rammadan bread but I was already too full to eat more than one piece.

This woman in Pammukale invited us to sit with her as she strung peppers that she hung on her clothesline to dry. A man from Japan joined us and seemd disapointed when he found they were not for use in a celebration of sorts. I see the local people all seem to have Turkish rugs to sit on outside as well as in their dwellings. I wonder how that is when I, the American tourist, can hardly afford them.

It looks to me like Turkey is all about tea. I saw little glasses everywhere, even where men were doing construction work. They seem to take their tea with them everywhere. These two men were enjoying tea and lively conversation until I rudely interrupted them with my camera.