A Rare Opportunity

There were a good many nations invited to take part in the Kucukcekmece Lake festival. In my lifetime I've had the privilege of meeting at least one native from most of those present. As much as I've heard about Palestinians on the news, I've never met or conversed with a Palestinian or Philistine. At one of the events where the groups all mingled in costume, this dancer and I decided we really needed to take a picture together since we were carrying flags that aren't often found together. Call it our own little political statement. Then we did something typically female and non-political: we shared a recipe.

Wrap It Up

I'm home now but want to make a final, well, almost final, comment on Istanbul. This city is now number one on my favorite cities list. Istanbul is different from any place I've visited in Eastern Europe or the US. It's a busy city with a one foot in the present and the other in the distant past. What a history!

People have been very friendly, even those who aren't trying to sell me something. I've never been anywhere that people stepped forward and volunteered to help without even being asked, be it giving directions or hauling luggage. And is this city ever industrious!! Maybe its because this is Ramadam though I think it isn't just that. Maybe they are simply curious about us tourists but I don't care because it is so nice to have personal contact with strangers.

Speaking of Ramadam, I feel lucky to have been in Turkey for the beginning of it. I asked a young chef at our hostel what it was all about. He felt it best to quote his father who's explanation was that the whole fasting thing is a reminder to be generous to those who are less fortunate by sharing their hunger for a period of time. Therefore, they fast from sunup to sundown without even water in the dead of summer. I hear there are exemptions for those who are pregnant or have medical problems such as diabetes, but can't swear to that. I noticed increased evening activity with food booths preparing for the onslaught that would come with the call to end the daily fast. There were more beggars on the streets and they were raking it in. We could hear the festivities in the Hagia Sophia park, music and the hum of a crowds in the streets. I was too worn out to investigate. I am truly sorry that my government gave Muslims such a bad rap because I have found them to be a very big-hearted group of people.

I want to end this trip by presenting some photos of the people I met and observations from my treks off the beaten tourist path in all of Turkey.

Yes, they still do foot washing. I didn't notice this at most of the mosques I visited, but one had washing stations to accomodate a crowd. Several people came to wash in the short time I was there. I don't really know what its all about.

We wandered into an old neighborhood and ran across this makeshift vegetable-fruit market. It reminds me of the truck farmer that came to my neighborhood when I was very young. I'd be willing to bet this fancy rig was his own creation.

This restaurant served my favorite food, a philo form filled with chicken and aubergine with a tasty sauce and topped with cheese. The owner, the proud man on the left, gave us tea every time we ate there and always refused payment. His son is attending a school in New York. Many little restaurants display their entrees in the window for people like myself who just can't resist.

A hop skip and a jump from the Galata Bridge, a very popular tourist destination, is a lively little neighborhood of locals where a a few small fishing vessels dock and...guess what? There is a fish market. There were a few vegetable stands as well as a fellow who cooked fish right there and sold it from his cart.

In the neighborhood next to the fish market, one can buy block and tackle, rope, and all manner of hardware necessary to maintain a small fishing operation. I ran across this store selling paint. These bags contain powdered colorants, something I've never seen in this country. Notice the stones painted to show the colors available.

This is a plate of mezes, appetizers prepared by our chef at the Istanbul Hostel. There is hummus as well as a dolma but most of these are some variation of eggplant, or aubergine which seems like the same thing to me. These are dips to be scooped and scarfed up with the bread provided. Later he brought us what he said was his special Rammadan bread but I was already too full to eat more than one piece.

This woman in Pammukale invited us to sit with her as she strung peppers that she hung on her clothesline to dry. A man from Japan joined us and seemd disapointed when he found they were not for use in a celebration of sorts. I see the local people all seem to have Turkish rugs to sit on outside as well as in their dwellings. I wonder how that is when I, the American tourist, can hardly afford them.

It looks to me like Turkey is all about tea. I saw little glasses everywhere, even where men were doing construction work. They seem to take their tea with them everywhere. These two men were enjoying tea and lively conversation until I rudely interrupted them with my camera.

Turgutreis and Kos

Turqetreis and Kos have only one thing in common. They are both in the Agean Sea. In fact they face each other in more ways than one. We could see Kos from Turqetreis which is in Turkey if the light was right. Kos is a Greek Isle. Somebody isn't too happy about their proximity to each other because Turgutreis is in a military zone created because the two countries seem to be at odds. There are sometimes little scenarios and minor military confrontations in the waters separating these two. So much for politics. 

Turgutreis is a sailing town complete with a yacht club, sailboats and crystal blue water to sail them on. It seems to be an affluent town though appearances can be deceiving. What struck me right off was the fact that all the buildings are painted white, with very rare exceptions. I am a color person but do have to admit that the effect is striking, especially against the blue, blue sky and equally blue water. Houses tend to be modest in size and square or rectangular. So many of them are so much the same that one who is unfamiliar can only identify each by peeking in windows or by the plantings outside.

We ate out, a really nice dinner of lamb shanks at our friend's favorite haunt. Afterward, I took the bones and distributed them among the stray dogs. They are not as well cared for as in Bulgaria, a much poorer country. However, they are not afraid and are surprisingly gentle. Being drawn to feeding them must be a symptom of missing my own dogs.

Kos is Greek. In Kos there is color. Our ferry docked right next to the old castle walls. We walked a very short distance into town, wove around, yet always found ourselves back at the main square. We went into a mosque there, took off our shoes, put on head scarves and sat down in the women's area. The call for prayer started while we were still there and sounds so much different than when we stood outside where it is amplified. What an interesting treat.

There are old Roman ruins everywhere, sometimes with information posted. They aren't taken care of or even well organized, sadly. We went into a walled area that was an agora full of shops and stalls dating way back before the time of Christ, like 300 to 400 BC. No stalls or shops are left to view but many pieces of columns are lying around to be photographed on, climbed on and/or graffitied on if one chooses to do so. Sad. 

There aren't so many stray dogs evident on this island but stray kitties are everywhere. People care for them, leaving out containers of food and water. They even have postcards, calendars and other tourist goods featuring "the cats of Kos". Very cute. I've said it before and will say it again that I  think the state of their strays says a  lot about these people.

Turgutreis from the patio.

Turgutreis at night.

Kos harbor.

Roman leftovers.

Kos kitties in the ruins.

Pamukkale

Pamukkale ıs a small town that reputedly has nothıng goıng for ıt but the travertınes and Hıeropolıs. I´m not sure I agree. People lıve ın small houses that are not ornate but have ınterestıng ways of addıng terraces and arbors to them. There ıs also the love of color wıthout botherıng to match the neıghbor´s house...and ıt works well. The tourıst strıp wıth the usual vendors ıs pretty domınant yet one can fınd people actually lıvıng normal lıves. We walked a bıt and found a lady spread out on her Turkısh carpet strıngıng peppers. She ınvıted us to sıt and talk. We dıd, language barrıer and all.

I came for the Travertıne Terraces which are ıncredıble. Its a huge whıte mouıntaın wıth ıt´s character formed by a great deal of runnıng water just loaded wıth mınerals. Over the years the mınerals collected and became rock, beautıful whıte rock wıth the most ıncredıble patterns. There are a serıes of pools I'm not convınced aren´t man made ´that have become terraces of the most ıncredıble aqua water. Many many tourısts go up every day ın theır bathıng suıts to bathe ınt those pools. It´s forbıdden to walk on the travertıne ın shoes, not slıppery but hard on the feet. And ıt´s HOT!

At the top ıs the old Roman ruın Hıeropolıs. There ıs an amphıtheater under reconstructıon that ıs quıte ıncredıble. I get dızzy just lookıng at all those steps...and I'm wonderıng where the lıons are. There are remnants of the castle wall complete wıth arches and columns lyıng around all over the place, very few complete. There ıs also a museum but I was too tıred to bother. Ah, regret.

Pamukkale town photo.

Fairy Chimneys and Such

On our first day we went to an  underground village museum a good couple bus rides away. They are natural caves built into the sides of formations that remind me a lot of Badlands in  S. Dakota. The rooms are not large, some have been enhanced, shaped and decorated,  with stone-cutting tools. People actually lived in  these many many caves as early as the 11th century and probably well before. The underground village museum was a pretty complete example. It had rooms they call stables for a few horses, rooms for cooking, food storage, study, worship, and I suppose they had rooms to sleep in. There were many small tunnels from room to room, some with huge round stones that were rolled into the walkway in the event of attack. They are said to all move completely underground in the event an invasion. Ventilation and drainage tunnels were also built in to these underground complexes as are burial spaces.

This morning we went to the open air museum which seems to concentrate on churches, tiny ones. These have domes cut in, columns, naves, crypts, and icons. Some of the churches have designs drawn in red and yellow ochre. Most of these are pretty primitive: symbols, zig zag borders, often a cross in a circle design. The icons are frescoe, much more primitive than those in the big Orthodox churches I visited in Eastern Europe. Some are faded but others are still fairly bright. What seems sad is the destruction to them. There are the usual initials carved into them for who knows how many centuries. A lot of the figures have had their faces scratched on or completely scratched off in what seems to be a very deliberate manner. I asked about it but was unable to get any answers as to why. I wondered if it was encouraged by the coming of a different religious group. I think these little chapels were Orthodox churches, probably Greek judging by the lettering. 

In the evening we took a bus up to Kale Castle, actually a large cave with lots of 'apartments' in them and housing built all around. It is actually a tiny town but I can't recall the name. We walked downhill back to Goreme taking pictures until the shadows were too deep, arriving back at the hostel after dark. The next morning we walked across the road into the formations in search of 'fairy chimneys', tall, more needle like formations, many with little caves in them that once served a function rather than being simply caves. We found one that was a chapel where a little dome had been shaped above and a couple other tiny rooms. This one had designs of ochre painted inside. We turned back when the trail got too steep for the little old ladies among us to navigate. Off to a good lunch and an afternoon bus to Pammakule.

Cappadocia

Here in Cappadocia it is hot hot hot but not as humid as it was in Istanbul. Still, the heat saps my energy. We are staying in a hostel room cut into the side of a pretty nifty formation. It could be a natural cave with a little chiseling out. There are a lot of those around. In fact, That's what Goreme is all about. I don't care how natural it is as long as its cool...and it is. Unfortunately, it is also dark so I have to write outside  under this relentless sun. 

This part of Turkey is desert and there are few large cities. From the bus I see that it's an agricultural area and groups of people are working in the fields. I watch the trucks coming into town loaded with watermelons, another bright orange and green melon the same size and shape, and potatoes. I don't see how anything can grow here because it seems so dry but am enjoying the fruit from the apricot trees that appear to wild or left over from a long gone homestead. We also found olives, grapes, and a white mulberry that is really sweet.  

There are a lot of rural dwellings that look like they were built on the walls of very old buildings, possibly ancient ruins, then the wall goes up with the use of yet another era of stone or brickwork and is sometimes capped off with yet another material, finishing off with a red tile roof. Those to me are the most picturesque. These are located in the older, quaint parts of town. They also have downtown districts that look like any comparable town worldwide. I'm not all that attracted to those so don't take note of them unless something makes them stand out. Let us not forget the homes of the well to do. There are lots of those. There is also the little tourist shops, very make-do, that pop up all around any tourist site. Very colorful.

Breakfast consists of slices of cucumber and tomato, feta cheese, olives, bread and jams, sometimes rose petal jam or cherry with bits of fruit in it. Today we also had the option of honey and a hazelnut spread that I didn't want to try first thing in the morning. For lunch I got a blackberry smoothie and a watermelon-feta salad. Dane had something like our quesadillas but filled with potato seasoned with mint. Our heavy meal is often the usual Middle Eastern dinner, never with pork.

Goreme, Turkey

Vendors outside the Underground City Museum.

Showing off a find of apricots...yum!!

Potters tree.

Kucukcekmece Festival Photos

To wrap up the dance festival, I can only think to post more photos. At first I knew which team wore which costume but several teams had numerous costumes and I lost track. It didn't even matter anymore. Cultural and national divisions didn't matter as much as having a good time together, taking photos of ourselves with the other dancers, better yet, dancing and partying with them. Yes language slowed us down but we got more comfortable with the struggle as time passed. The language was dance and it really has no borders. Did we have fun? You bet.

Trekking In Old Town

We had a free day and I went into the old town tourist sector with one of my roommates. We started out in the Hagia Sofia where there are a couple really big mosques, the Sultan's hamam (bath) and a million tourists for the local hawkers to prey on ...and do they ever! We took one up on it for the experience of being led to his leather coat business, served delicious apple tea and given the old sales pitch. I really enjoyed the tea and air conditioning but didn't buy any of his beautiful coats. 

Our next stop was the grand bazaar, the largest of its kind in the whole wide world or so they say. It is huge full of everything imaginable, very crowded. Oh, is it ever colorful! Too bad I am not a shopper. After a turn or two, we exited the bazaar and had no earthly idea where we were. Outside the streets were old, funky, once again filled with shops but this time not a tourist area. We pointed ourselves downhill and rambled through the most fascinating section of all, even though the shops were leaning toward household good rather than the usual carpets and ceramic slipware. The streets were cobblestone and followed an old wall that I thought might be part of the castle, but could be almost anything. After all, this is a very, very, very old city.

We came out with the Bosporus in sight and the Galata Bridge right across the street. Through the arch was the courtyard of a huge mosque that people keep telling me is the New Mosque, or something like that. I hate knowing for sure because I have so much fun not knowing. Anyway, we went inside and were wowed by the intricate designs that covered everything, domes, walls, just everything. These are repetition designs rather than the icons of the Orthodox churches of Romania. I understand that the repeating of these designs has to do with infinity and that the calligraphy is not simply writing but began as a form of worship oh so long ago. It was well worth taking my shoes off and putting on a head scarf for. Women are not allowed in the cordoned area to worship with the men.

After elbowing our way across the Galata Bridge, huffing and panting our way up the hill to the tower, we pointed ourselves downhill again and accidentally found the local fish market where the tourists don't go. The usual: covered stalls with lots of fish on display, maybe freshly caught since fishing boats moor very close by. Some people had little booths set up and were cooking fish to sell. I didn't dare try them but did find a stand with some cherries. There was much discussion in our group about how scary it would be to eat the fish from that nasty looking water. I would if I was particularly fond of fish. 

Scene from the old sector.

Inside the mosque.

View from below the tower.

Kucukcekmece Lake Festival and More

I'm with the Kucukcekmece Lake Festival now. There are folk dance groups from a good many countries here including Palestine, Hungary, Poland, Taiwan, Canada, Brazil, Italy, Turkey, and Columbia. We are in a luxury hotel by the airport, a very dull neighborhood. It doesn't matter because the is little time for any outside travel. We go to the big bridal hall for luncheons, sometimes with speakers, then off to whatever is on the agenda. I took part in the dragon boat practice and rowed my poor arms off. Then the boat race got cancelled due to wind and choppy water. Leave it to youth and dancers to turn the event into a sidewalk party. We had a parade in downtown Istanbul in almost 100 degree heat. The two non-dancers were assigned to carry the flag and USA sign. That's me. The onlookers were very enthusiastic, mixing with us, taking photos with us, telling us about their experience in our country, or just wanting to connect. No sense of order there but lots of fun.

Last night was our opening performance. Mark, the flag carrier, and I had to go onstage for the flag ceremony. The girls carrying the signs had to memorize a line in Turkish, not an easy language to our tongue. I had to say Tesekular Kucukcekmece and practiced it over and over for two days. There was literally a sea of faces out there and it was terrifying. The Polish girl, suffering severe stage fright, bungled hers and they didn't give me the chance to do the same so I got away with saying the easy word. Then there were huge sparklers erupting from stage fron, colored lights and silvery confetti raining down on us but not before we stood through a few speeches, always the speeches. I thought I'd fall over before it ended, or maybe just pass out. Then the dancers performed and we got to watch. We left to the sound of a follow-up rock band. 

There is a bus for each country and we get police escorts that other drivers don't pay any attention to. From the bus I observe life in Istanbul. People crowd into the parks with their rugs, whole families. They bring their little cookers and barbecue meat while the women are preparing what I assume is the rest of the meal. It isn't unusual to see big tea kettles, though kettle isn't quite the right word. Vendors are out en masse. I noticed a couple men with wide shallow pans of what smells like roasted chestnuts balanced on their heads. People, even kids, are out in the traffic, even very heavy traffic, selling bottles of water and sometimes flowers. Drivers are very tolerant of them.

Speaking of drivers, this is a friendly sort of chaos. I am reminded of the old days in Manhattan when nobody paid attention to lines. They grab whatever spaces they can very aggressively. I like to sit behind the driver and watch him vie for space with other cars, each trying to keep the other from moving into the tiny space created when the vehicle ahead moves up. Surprisingly, the bus doesn't always win. So much for tonnage rights. Horn blowing doesn't even seem unfriendly but is more saying "I'm here". I can imagine driving here would be a lot of fun.

Lining up for the parade.

First performance but not our group.

Our high-steppin' dancers.

Turkey Trek First Impressions

Day one in Istanbul wasn't so bad. Finding the hostel seems to always be the biggest challenge. Our hostel is tucked away on a tiny side street, more like an alley. Directions tell the hapless one to continue up the hill to a certain mosque that isn't well labeled yet several streets go up the hill from the tram stop. And there are more mosques in Istanbu than Christian churches in Yancey County. The streets follow no pattern but worm atound as if they were intended to get one lost when they were laid out centuries ago. So we got lost but not for too long.

The neighborhood is great, right in the center of the old section. The Hagia Sophia is close by and the world's biggest market is just up the hill. All over, shops sell the same thing. There are sections  for carpets, jewe;ry, clothing, ceramics...you name it. Intricate designs are the mode here. With so much competition, the shopkeepers are very aggressive but not in an unfriendly manner, So far they are tolerable.

We hiked out to the Galanta Bridge with all the fish sellers and fish restaurants below it. They say the fish is the freshest here, believable because the top of the bridge is lined with fishermen, I can't even handle the smell. I can't handle the crowds, either, Too many tourists, I'd be a lot happier just scouting out inner city neighborhoods.

The next day my nephew, Dane, joined us and we went to the old Roman Cistern. They told us it was forgotten for eons until someone finally paid attention to the locals who told of being able to lower buckets below the street and come up with fish. It was reopened and restored as a tourist attraction. It really is an interesting composition of coulumns, supposedly marble but too decomposed to be able to tell. There are two columns with heads of Medusa taken from some other older Roman structure, presumably. One is turned sideways, the reason a mystery.

Roman Cistern

Carpet Vender at the Grand Bazaar